Out into the Siberian Wilderness

With the arrival of a new Brit in Tomsk, we decided to venture out into the real Siberian countryside. Having not explored much out of Tomsk, we organised a weekend at a «база отдыха» (relaxation base) in the scenic Siberian countryside thirty kilometres south of the city. In honesty, we actually had no idea where we were really going and just hoped that the bus that we had been recommended would take us to the right place. We were dumped out in the bleak, snowy landscape by a huge hammer and sickle monument and it suddenly became apparent that the well-marketed «база отдыха» was actually the site of the former collective farm known as the «Cовхоз Вершининский » (Vershinskii Sovhoz). Great start. The vodka bottles were opened and an essential pose on the hammer and sickle was photographed.

Baba Yaga (a witch from Slavic folklore)  

Wheely suitcases in tow, we followed the sign to the so-called relaxation base (http://zapovednoe.tomsk.ru/) We were met with some large gates and some sparsely dispersed, grey building blocks. As we were all becoming increasingly nervous about our much anticipated weekend away, I spotted some horses! Hurrah! We then found our room in the dilapidating Soviet building and went out to explore the snowy grounds of the farm. We organised some riding and I got to gallop in the snow on a Siberian pony named Apolon. On the farm there were also some husky dogs and a stack of cages where some beautiful rabbits were being kept. I fear they may soon be made into equally beautiful fur hats. There was also a banya (Russian sauna) and little swimming pool, so we spent our evenings roasting ourselves in the sauna, running around in subzero temperatures in little clothing, and then jumping in the cold pool. We had also chosen to have all our meals provided for by the hotel, after all there were no shops nearby and we were left with little choice but to eat what was put in front of us. The flavours of traditional Soviet cuisine did not exactly tempt our taste buds, but it was interesting to know how little influence Western food has had on the produce of the kitchens in the depths of Siberia, despite the availability of nearly all the same products in the supermarkets. Kasha, the popular breakfast gruel, was served soaked in an astonishing amount of butter, and seaweed was served with eggs and mayonnaise (I think I am the furthest away from any ocean that one can possibly be). Nevertheless, we ate enough to sustain us for a walk in the woods and with the recent snow fall, it looked like a true winter wonderland. I am also convinced that I saw bear footprints.

After our short holiday, we arrived back in Tomsk and the temperature had fallen to -20˚c. What a perfect temperature to walk out to an out-of-town cafe! We walked over the bridge out of the city and admired the frozen river (people have even been walking on the ice) and sought out some delicious shashliki (kebabs). Afterwards, we successfully hitch-hiked our way back into the city and avoided freezing our noses.

Finally, this last week I have decided that I particularly love the Asian element of Tomsk. My new love for Uzbek cuisine was at its peak on Saturday night when we went to an Uzbek restaurant (http://ingir.tomsk.ru/) which is the tastiest meal I have so far had in Tomsk. The Russian elements are of course fascinating, but the Uzbek restaurants and Asian music and dancing makes you realise how far away Tomsk is from Europe.