Sunday 16 September 2012

All Things Weird and Wonderful in Tomsk



Okroshka and some other treats
As I mentioned in my first blog, the Russian cuisine is like nothing I have had before. This last week has been filled with new delicacies. Okroshka was probably the most novel. Since the weather has been glorious, Tatiana thought she would treat me with some traditional summer food. Okroshka is a cold soup, which is made with chopped up vegetables, kvass (a beer-like Russian alcoholic drink), sour cream and chopped up meat. Russians think it is delicious! A breakfast treat this morning was kissel, a fruit soup thickened with potato starch. Tatiana encourages me to eat lots of healthy food before winter sets in, and she likes to describe all the vitamins that can be found in each delicacy. Another breakfast treat was «творог», cottage cheese, with sugar and apricots. It is often eaten with pancakes, but I was given just a whole bowl on its own. This is apparently also “very healthy”. Nonetheless my taste buds are quickly adapting and I now consider semolina to be the best breakfast of the week!

Tomsk State University
Russian hospitality may not be widely notorious but I have discovered how important and impressive it can be. Everyone is very keen that we should be looked after and they are prepared to give up their own time to take us interesting places. We have been escorted by at least 5 students to every museum for example. We were also invited by some Russian students to come to one of their flats one afternoon. We arrived not knowing what to expect. The door opened and up sprung ten girls all welcoming us in. They had prepared a mountain of «блины» (blini / pancakes), cupcakes, a pile of chopped fruit, chocolates, biscuits and ordered pizzas and rum... A feast. And that was not all. They had organised a game of “Mafia” (a murder mystery game) and a Russian version of articulate. It was a hilarious afternoon and felt very spoilt!

My expedition to the Post Office demonstrated the inefficiency of Russian bureaucracy. I simply needed a stamp for St Petersburg. I eventually found the right building, along with what seemed to be the whole population of Tomsk, all in several disorderly queues. I chose a queue, not really knowing what queue was for what, and waited. The fierce woman who was serving my queue then announced that  she would not serve anymore people because it was lunch time, (despite the fact that they were closing at 2 o clock anyway as it was Saturday). Most people disappeared begrudgingly but I stood my ground (as did the woman in front of me) and surprisingly she took sympathy on me and served me. The process of buying the stamp took about one minute, but my trip to the post office took a whole hour, and I forgot to buy an envelope, which I later found out they only sell in the post office, so I shall be going back on Monday!
The Post Office

You would imagine that Siberians would not feel the cold as much as Western Europeans since their internal thermometer functions in extreme winters. Tomsk’s coldest day on record was -60 degrees.  However, it appears that they are actually much more sensitive to the cold than we are... I am regularly stared at in astonishment for my lack of clothes, and consistently asked if I am warm enough. It has been 20 degrees this whole last week! Today my hostess Tatiana insisted I wore my winter coat (as it is 10 degrees), and declared she could not go outside because of the low temperatures. They tell us that it will be -40 soon, I do wonder what I will be expected to put on then?!

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