Tomsk: The Nuclear Power Station and the Potato Festival

When I tried to find out about Tomsk before I arrived, the images that appeared on google where grey, Soviet-looking and full of power stations. It is a relief that it is actually a pretty and friendly city. Nevertheless, one afternoon when we had nothing better to do, we decided to try and visit Seversk, the ‘secret town’ just outside of Tomsk, which is home to an enormous nuclear power station and in 1993, was the scene of one of the top ten nuclear disasters. We had been told that the town is very Soviet and that there is a huge statue of Lenin dominating the centre square just off ‘Communist Street’. So why not go and see it? As it turns out, a quick tourist visit to a nuclear power station is impossible. As the bus approached the town gates, everyone got out and headed to a small, grey side building which was the security gates. We waited for the queue to disappear and then Alex approached the guard (who I doubt has ever laughed or smiled). “We’re tourists. Can we come through?” And we all presented our passports. The guard looked completely confused and called in her ‘comrade’. (They were all addressing themselves as ‘comrades’, whilst holding guns.) I do not think that ‘tourists’ have ever tried to go to Seversk, and another terrifying guard was surprised we even knew about it, and that we definitely could not come in. But I must admit that it was worth the journey to the security gates just to see how parts of Russia are still scarily Soviet and oppressive.

Seversk Security Control Point (sneaky photo courtesy of Zoe, as cameras were banned)

The more cheerful event of my week was the best of my whole stay so far. The Tomsk Potato Festival. After meeting our teacher at the Chekhov statue we ventured forth into the festival. Wow. There were about a hundred stalls selling all sorts of homemade products and crafts, people dressed in traditional clothes, music playing and a mini concert to celebrate the potato harvest. There was a delicious smell of barbecuing shashliki (kebabs) and samovars boiling with tea. People had dressed up as bears, chickens, pel’meni ((the famous Russian ravioli) and tomato sauce bottles. We were invited into one stall to test the first tea from the samovar as well as a honey liqueur to warm us up (it was quite chilly). They told us that the Town Governor, who I assume is like the mayor, comes round each stall and tests everyone’s food. We also joined in dancing at the potato concert, and talked to all sorts of Russians who were obviously so proud of their homeland and its traditions and full of joy to be at the Potato Festival. (Definitely beats Brent Pelham Harvest Festival – sorry!)